A Community Takes an Audacious Stand for the Right to Preservation
In a bizarre and symbolic gesture, Jazdów, a small, green neighborhood of central Warsaw nicknamed a “village within a city,” has declared itself an independent state. Famed for its wooden cabins and grass-roots spirit, the community is now taking online applications for citizenship in languages ranging from Polish, English and Esperanto to pirate. The fossa was declared in response to the city’s repeated aloofness to the concerns of residents and attempts to make the area more commercial.
The neighborhood consists of 27 wooden houses meandering along tree-lined footpaths. Though diminished from its original proportions, it has withstood pressures from developers and city officials for decades. One of the bigger battles was in the early 2010s when plans to tear down the area led to protests that drew together residents, activists and the Finnish embassy next door. This has resulted in the formation of local organisation, Otwarty Jazdów, who are actively working to safeguard the districts cultural and social position in the city.
But we have still a fight ahead of us,” says one resident. City Hall floated the idea of opening the area to restaurants early in 2024, arousing fears of gentrification. Neighbors fear that this would ruin the district’s ambience, which is unique and so far mostly peaceful. A September 2024 gathering with the city led to all rental contracts expiring in February 2025 as well as a 50% rent hike. And even though city leaders promised more discussions on the subject, activists say they have heard nothing further.
From a War-torn Birth to a Bohemian Mecca
Jazdów’s history dates to 1945, when World War II left Warsaw in ruins. The Warsaw Reconstruction Office constructed a temporary settlement that would serve as a refuge to 95 of Finlands prefabricated wooden houses, taken as war reparations from the Soviets. The 54 sq/m were small cabins which had all the necessary such as public bath, school, well, store, and even winter sports areas. The compact provided respite in a city still suffering from war.
Originally planned to be a temporary shelter, the suburb became a long-term community instead. In the 1960s, it had become a destination for a creative set, the appeal of artists, actors and the like lending the district a Bohemian mood. In 1981 Beatles fans converged here to commemorate the first anniversary of John Lennon’s death, informally christening a street “Ulica Lennona” — a name that was later adopted officially.
Over the years, Jazdów has lost little homes to urban develop projects, such as the construction of embassies and highways. There are only seven families remaining today. But the neighborhood is anything but dead. It contains different types of cultural and educational institutions including an urban gardening school, a light therapy room, a traditional music center, and a film institute. People still flock to events like flea markets, yoga, dance parties and workshops.
A Vision for the Future
After years of not knowing, the resonance of Jazdów’s spirit of resistance has never been more vibrant. The aim, as Otwarty Jazdów members Lesya Kupar and Mateusz Potempski put it, are to: keep the houses in the commons of the city, give free space to the local NGOs and informal groups to be able to exist and to pay a fair rent that will cover the bills and maintain the buildings.
They also hope to restore the 26 house plots gradually lost over the years. The intention is to recover Jazdów, dividing the space between new dwellers and NGO-inspired projects. It’s a lofty goal, but it’s one that the community feels attainable.
Hope is not lost for Kupar and Potempski. “Jazdów is unique,” they say. “That’s also the reason why it should be saved. Eventually, we think it will end up that way.”
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